We had reached Kaza, slightly behind schedule and tired, but safe and having a ball along the way.
Read Part 1 of this blog on drive from Nashik to Rampur Bhushahr by clicking here and read Part 2 of this blog on the drive from Rampur Bushahr to Kaza via. Chitkul by clicking here.
Having finished our journey till Kaza, we were all relaxed. The tough part seemed to be behind us and we looked forward to having an easy day (the only time we stayed in a place for 2 nights) for visiting Komic, Langza and Hikkim. The trip ahead to Chandrataal also seemed fun, but the availability of information about Chandrataal Lake is quote less compared to other parts of Spiti.
Oh boy!! Were we wrong? The upcoming few days in Spiti Valley threw up the most challenging terrain, the most beautiful scenery and unforgettable memories of our lifetime. Read on for more..
On Day 10, the guys headed out of Kaza to visit Hikkim (highest postoffice in the world), Komic (Highest village connected by motor able road) and Langza (Buddha statue). But the unpredictable nature of Spiti had a surprise for us.
We decided to take only the Thar as it had been raining since the last evening and we were going to be coming back to Kaza in the evening. After piling into the Thar, we first visited Komic.
After some much needed hot ginger tea, we proceeded to Hikkim..
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| Hikkim.. World’s highest Post Office |
After leaving from Hikkim and driving towards Langza, we faced some heavy rains and all of a sudden the road turned into slush. Cars were slipping and sliding and an Innova ahead of us actually turned around 180 deg. and faced us. Taking advantage of the 4X4, we inched ahead and finally cleared the slushy area after a lot of sliding around ourselves. It was a scary experience, especially for my co-adventurers who have had no taste of 4X4 off-roading earlier 🙂
After our ordeal, we warned 3-4 vehicles heading up towards Hikkim. But I am not sure if they paid any attention to our suggestion of not proceeding ahead.
We all decided to return back to Kaza as we had had our share of adventure for the day and also because the rain was not letting up. Taking advantage of our early return, we headed back to Kaza city in the evening and had dinner at Hotel Deyzor. In my opinion, Hotel Deyzor is the best hotel in Kaza and the food was absolutely delicious. Although let me give you a heads up that they give first preference to in-house guests and very few walk-ins are taken at mealtimes. So head there early, if you want to ensure getting a meal.
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| With the owner, Karanbir Singh Bedi and his better half 🙂 |
On Day 11, we left early from Kaza. It was going to be a long day and one of our toughest drives, with visit to Key Monastery enroute to Chandra Taal. As per my understanding, the roads after Kaza (beyond Key Monastery)are not open in the winters. Thus, their upkeep even during the summer season is not top priority and the road condition can be quite bad.
The drive from Kaza to Key Monastery is awesome, with silky smooth roads. The views enroute are to amazing too..
We reached Key Monastery really early and found the monks having breakfast in the main prayer room. This was followed by their prayer session. It was a magical experience for me to be present during the rhythmic chanting of the scrolls. I feel really privileged to be present in the monastery at this moment.
We drove ahead of Key Monastery after a good breakfast in the on-site cafe and after playing with the small monks in-training. The scenery as we drove ahead is the best that I have seen in my life..
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| One of my favourite pics.. in Kibbar |
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| With a backdrop like that, how could I not pose for a pic with my Thar 🙂 |
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| Pics clicked randomly along the road |
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| A speck in the vastness of Spiti |
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| View through my window |
At Chicham bridge, Asia’s highest bridge at 13,596 feet.
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| Wooden Bridges |
Driving ahead, the views kept getting better..
The roads were starting to show signs of getting bad.. although still manageable..
We reached Losar around 01:30 pm, where we stopped for lunch. The road had been getting worse after Kibbar and we found several travellers with vehicle troubles and punctures in Losar. We helped out as much as we could with our tools and knowledge.We were informed that the road ahead to Kunzum Top (one of the highest passes at 15059 feet) and then onwards to Chandra Taal was much worse, which got me worried as the road condition was already pretty bad. We drove ahead with apprehension and the roads indeed were pathetic, definitely the worse that we had encountered in our entire trip. In most of the drive after Losar, there were no roads at all. Also, it was very confusing at times as there were several roads diverging from a point and no signboards. These roads have been made as different travellers chose different routes to drive ahead, leaving us totally lost.
Finally we made it upto Kunzum Top. There is a Kunzum Mata temple at the top and it’s a ritual for every vehicle reaching the top to drive around the temple before proceeding ahead.
Driving ahead from Kumzum Top, the road just kept getting bad to worse..
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| Road heading down from Kumzum Top towards Batal |
Driving ahead we came to a signboard that said Chandra Taal was 13.5 kms. ahead. I thought we were home free, but boy was I in for a surprise..
The road ahead was mountainous, treacherous, narrow and no boundary or markings on the valley side. We encountered some cyclists and they had to pick up their bicycles on their shoulders and stand to give enough space to our Thar to get through. Don’t even ask about the time an Innova came from the opposite direction, which ensured a time consuming game of reversing and making space for two cars. It was a nightmare.
Finally we made it to the camps at Chandrataal. My shoulders felt like rocks and I was exhausted. These last 13.5 kms. are definitely my toughest driving test and I am very proud that I got through without even a scratch on my Thar.
We checked into our camp at 05:30 pm and decided to head to the lake immediately, so that we were free to leave for Manali early the next day. The army post allows permit only till 6 pm to drive towards the lake, which is a 2.5 km drive uphill from the camps area. We made the deadline and moved ahead.
After driving up the mountain, you have to trek for about 20-30 mins. from the parking area to reach the lake, a feat in itself at such high altitude. The exhaustion from driving and the extremely cold weather (coldest in our trip) didn’t help much. Finally we made it to the lake, and all the efforts were worth it. The exhaustion disappeared and I felt rejuvenated and refreshed.
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| At Chandra Taal Lake |
It was getting dark by the time we got back to camp.
The temperature was near 0 degree and we desperately needed some warmth. Some scotch and namkeen went a long way and then we headed to dinner. The dinner tent was a large tent with a big chimney in the middle to provide heat. Dinner included some boiled veggies, dal and rice. In such conditions, the food was delicious. Lights out was at 09:30 pm and we didn’t need any other excuse to get under the warm blankets and sleep.
On Day 12, inspite of deciding to leave early morning, we departed only by 8 am after feasting on hot chai and bread-jam. Such a simple breakfast never tasted so good. We proceeded ahead quickly as we had to cross 3 major water crossings including the infamous chota dhara.
A video shot on Mack’s GoPro might give you an idea about the Chandra Taal road, heading back towards Batal. Believe me, the road is much more treacherous and difficult at the end of the day in fading light, like when we had traversed it while going.
Our first stop was at Batal, at the famous Chacha-Chachi Chandra dhaba. They are well known in these parts for their open hearts and generosity towards travellers.
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| With Chacha and Chachi at Chandra Dhaba |
After a quick tea stop, we proceeded ahead again. The landscape again made me feel as if we were driving on the moon. It was bare, rugged and grey.
Soon, we came across the infamous water crossings. We were lucky to find the water level low, as we were crossing in the morning. The water levels rise substantially in the afternoon, as the ice melts at the top of the mountains with the sunshine and water flows down dangerously. It is not uncommon for a flash flood to occur if a large chunk of ice breaks away. It’s always advisable to get through the water crossings as early in the day as possible, and as quickly as possible. Please don’t stop and start taking pictures in the middle of it.
Finally, we were coming to the end of the Spiti circuit. The road was still narrow and treacherous but the end of the road was calling us. There is absolutely nothing on this road. So we made good progress.
We started our accent on a severe hill, where the road was completely washed out and there was dried mud everywhere. It had been a large mudslide a couple of day back, and we were lucky to be coming a few days later. Finally, we took a turn and the Malani-Leh highway lay before ahead. It was the first time we were seeing tarmac in quite a days.
We drove towards Manali and reached Rohtang Pass. It was extremely crowded, being August 15 and a holiday.
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| Happy Independence Day from Rohtang Pass |
We drove into Manali and checked into Ride Inn Cafe. It is a specialty B&B, which has been custom made for bikers.
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| Beautifully thought out and decorated cafe |
Hotel Review: Ride Inn Cafe, Manali
Rating: 4/5
Review:
We checked into 3 rooms as the hotel does not allow triple occupancy. The rooms are comfortable and all basic necessities are available. The bathroom is very good as well. It was really luxurious after spending the previous night at a tent in Chandra Taal.
The cafe is on the top floor. It’s been designed beautifully and the view form the terrace is amazing. We enjoyed ourselves with steaming cups of tea in the chilli evening.
The food also was delicious. The kitchen is looked after by the owner and the quality is evident. We had a good Indian meal at dinner.
The reason that I have reduced 1 star is because of electricity problem. There was no electricity during most of our stay duration. This was because of heavy rainfall the earlier day, but the hotel should have some kind of back-up. During our entire stay, we had electricity for about 4 hrs. only. We spent the evening with our torches lighting the room.
Now that we were back in civilisation, it was time to head back home. The return journey was planned in the same way as the one we took while coming. We would cover as much distance as possible and then stay when dusk settled in.
On Day 13, we departed early from Manali and drove towards Chandigarh. The roads were not in great condition owing to the rains. But we made good headway. Driving throughout the day, the heat of Rajasthan and the traffic let us get only to Rohtak. He decided to call it a day and checked-in to Hotel Lavenir.
Hotel Review: Hotel Lavenir, Rohtak
Rating: 4/5
Review:
The hotel was absolutely new and only 10 rooms were operational when we stayed. The restaurant was also under construction. The hotel promised us dinner in room service and we were happy. Besides we got a good deal as the hotel was still under construction.
We checked-in to 2 rooms on triple occupancy basis. The rooms were large and even a third mattress left enough room to walk around. The rooms were well lit and there was TV and A/C.
The staff was super helpful, maybe because we were one fo the first few guests staying in the hotel.
The tea and sandwich served for snacks was good. The dinner was tasty, but extremely oily. We were told that the kitchen has started and all food was cooked in-house. There is a ‘Great Kebab Factory’ restaurant in the adjacent building, but we were too tired to venture out for dinner.
On Day 14, we again departed early morning as we wanted to cover as much distance as possible. Today we made it to Neemuch, which was short of our target destination of Chittorgarh. But our rule of not driving after dusk was followed religiously.
Hotel Review: Hotel Tanishq The Resort of Fun, Nimbahera
Rating: 3/5
Review:
We made our reservation on a travel website before reaching and even called the hotel to confirm. Still, we had to wait 10 mins. on the gate while the security checked our reservation. Next, at check-in, the person at reception told us that they will serve us dinner in restaurant only if there was no family eating there. Else, dinner would be served in room service only.
We couldn’t understand if they were fussy and suspicious only with us or with all guests.
The rooms were good. The hotel does not allow triple occupancy, so we took 3 rooms. The hotel is very new and everything was in great shape. The bathroom is also large with soaps provided. There are no TVs in the rooms though.
The food taste was good. But the service is really struggling to cope up. As far as I could see, we were the only guests in the hotel. Still we were forced to have dinner in our room. The food was brought to us in batches and the roti was over before the vegetables came. The rice came last, when there was no dal or vegetable left.
Overall, a very average stay.
Day 15, last day… We left early morning the next day. We had to cover 650 kms. to reach Nasik but we were determined to get home. Smooth roads, less traffic and God’s grace got us to Nasik at 05:30 pm.
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| Welcomed back by our awesome riding brothers |
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| Total kms. clocked in entire trip |
I hope that I have been able to show a little bit of the magic of Spiti through the narration of my experience. Spiti is a magical place and I have definitely left a part of my heart there, which keeps longing to go back as soon as possible.
Also, the videos from inside the vehicle have been recorded on my Transcend Drivepro 230 dashcam. You can ready my detailed review by clicking here.
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